A Typical Day On The North Shore

A huge west swell came through today and pumped some huge waves into Pipeline (you figure out why it's called that) and Sunset. Hundreds of people packed the beach watching the world's top surfers taking on the best of what the ocean has to offer. Photographers with super long lenses lined the edge of the water.

Shouts erupted from the crowd every time a surfer got spit out of an insane barrel, hands lifted to the sky! Occasionally someone got pitched over the falls. fell down 20 ft faces head first into razor sharp coral reef and everyone just cringed. We only saw one guy get taken away on a stretcher.

My friends went out and made it back to the beach in one piece, though one board didn't. I hung out on the safe sand, witnessing the mecca going off !

Another good day !